Tuesday, November 23, 2010

1st Blogoversary Give-Away---#2 of 7

In case you didn't see my Original Post I'm hosting a Give-Away for everyday this week (7 total) in celebration of my 1st Blogoversary on November 28th. Please visit the original post to see all of the dates/ details about  the Give-Away's)

The only requirement is for you to 1. Be a Follower of my Blog and 2. Answer the Question posed in this blog entry.


Don't forget to spread the Word!


So here's the SECOND Give-Away Prize:

 (Although this book is an "Oldie" don't estimate it. It definitely contains some great techniques on how to fit a variety of figure types. I've always been impressed with older sewing books. They seem to be more thorough than alot of the newer books. I guess that makes sense, especially since people made most of their own clothes back then and heavily depended upon these reference books).

 (I love the fact that this book not only has a diagram of the fitting issue, but also shows how to make corrections on the pattern or muslin).

  (Some more tips on fitting.)

I've mentioned it in several posts before but I remember clearly when I got the epiphany on the importance of not only being able to sew a garment well but also being able to make it fit. I was knew at sewing and had gotten pretty comfortable with the sewing process but was always disapointed when my garments didn't fit quite right. It was then that I began realizing (like we all know) that I would have to transform a pattern with standard body measurements to  reflect the measurements of my own.  I'm telling you once I got that revelation, I embarked on a journey to learn how to fit and have been on that journey ever since.

Learning to sew to fit one's body is a great achievement. Man if there's anything it forces you to do, it is to take a close look at the body you have and how fascinating and unique it really is. Hey I didn't really know I had narrow shoulders, long legs, a short torso and high derriere until I had to sew clothes for myself. I mean I knew I had these characteristics but spent most of my time being frustrated that RTW clothes just didn't fit me right. I swear, RTW clothes can often times make you feel that something is wrong with your body! LOL! Now that I can make my own clothes and know how to fit garments correctly to my figure, I'm no longer frustrated about the great characteristics that make me ME. Learning how to sew clothes that fit my body did not come easy---it's tough when you're learning anything for the first time. But I read everything I could get my hands on on the subject and it paid off. Of course I'll forever be learning and perfecting my craft for years to come. And as they say, the more you do it, the better you get at it! This "Fit Journey" has both challenged and heightened my sewing skills. I'm glad I decided to take the journey....

So my question for you is.....

What has your "Fit Journey" been like? Do you feel you know your body well enough to make clothes that fit it or are you still learning? What are your challenges? Do tell......

42 comments:

  1. I'm loving these questions! I am definitely new on the fit learning curve - though really I'm new on the full sewing learning curve. There are some things I understand - partly by intuition and a good eye - and other things I've learned how to change in the last year. For me, the most sizable alteration (ha) is full bust. I don't always need it - and not because my full and high bust ratio don't always warrant it - but because I know how to sew with knits (which give) and I have a narrow frame (which mitigates the bust size in pattern alteration).

    Nonetheless, when I need it, I gotta know how to use it - not just in principle, but on my specific body, in all it's mathematical uniqueness.

    This is why my bra sewing has been such a long (dare I say painful) process. I'm still having to figure out how to fit precisely (no give in the duoplex i.e. super uplifting fabric I'm working on to make my bras - even a cotton shirt has a bit of give). My next attempt (soon) will involve a ripped up, well-fitting, RTW bra (bye bye 60 bucks). The version after that - should it come to it - will involve hauling ass to Hamilton and taking classes at the Bra Maker's Supply.

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  2. PS: I love your philosophy about how knowing how to fit makes your body just the perfect shape, all the time. It's so true. If you know that you can manage whatever changes occur in your shape, then you can always look your best.

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  3. I have not really ever tried to fit things to myself. I didn't even know I could until recently. I tried to make a pair of shorts a few months back. The fit wasn't perfect, but it was a great start. I think I'd really like to figure out the perfect fit for shirts. I have never found a shirt (or dress for that matter) that fit properly, so it would be wonderful.

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  4. I have always known how to lengthen my clothes. As a teenager, that was all I needed to know - the letter "I" is fairly easy to fit. Now that my figure has "matured" I am learning about fitting the letter "A" that I have become. Not only am I experimenting with different sizes for shoulders, waist and hips, but front and back as well.

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  5. If I use the same pattern company, I'm getting to the point where I know what fit changes to make for me. My disappointment is that all my years learning to fit for me will not be of use when sewing for my daughter, as she is a very different shape to me. It also means that I don't have somebody to pass these beuatiful home sewn garments onto.

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  6. I took FFRP class from Marta Alto two years ago. It was very eye opening and helpful for me. I had read both FFRP books and the class just helped reaffirm what I already knew. I feel like I do pretty good at fitting things most of the time, tho sometimes I don't take the care to fit as good as I should. My hardest thing still is figuring out the SBA. There is always talk about FBA, but no one seems to address SBA very well (or not that I have stumbled up on yet).

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  7. Definitely still learning - I can grade out for my hips and in for my shoulders, but I can't quite get the armscye right. On the last (knit) Kwiksew top I sewed I took out 5cm in length (that's 2in!) between the shoulder and the bottom of the armhole, and that made a big difference. I will probably go for 4cm on less close fitting garments. With RTW I find being short (5'2) more difficult than being chubby, and I think it is the same in sewing.
    On the other hand, the more 'non-standard' your body is, the more satisfying sewing is compared to RTW. Never mind the niceties, it is just sooo rewarding to sew things that stay on at the shoulders, don't have the waist where my hips are and don't pull over the tummy.


    You are so right about not realising how unique we all are, until you fit yourself. That is pretty cool really!

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  8. Yes! Fit is what makes the difference between an okay finished project and a great finished project. It's one of the main reasons I sew, because we can fit our so-called problem areas properly and flatter our bodies, no matter what's currently in fashion.
    (I have this book already, so don't enter me in the giveaway, just wanted to leave my two cents :))

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  9. This question really is a great question, one that I am trying to embark on a learn more about.... I am just getting comfortable with patterns and sewing so I would say a lot of times I am just winging it, praying for the best...However, I do own the FFRP and one other fitting book..I think it's just seems so overwhelming with some of the adjustments but I know as with anything you have to keep at it!

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  10. I like this question too!

    I have only been sewing for a couple of years and have found the last 12 months the most challenging, as I begin to learn about fit in earnest. The journey has been as much exciting and rewarding, as slow and difficult. Sometimes the pattern alterations and muslins seem to take so long that I am losing the motivation to make the final garment! Still, I know that the more I learn and practice the easier it will get and eventually I will be able to produce nice garments that flatter my (lumpy, bumpy) figure.

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  11. I'm still working on fit!! Hurray!! I'm an advanced beginner and FFRP is my sewing bible. I just took an sloper class (or basic block) for the skirt - and hope to take a bodice class this year as well!

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  12. Just when I thought I had it right, I went and had two babies in quick succession (12months apart) and now I not only adjust for rounded shoulders, short waist, sway back, high left hip and long legs - I have to consider that I am now more of an apple shape than a rectange! Doing all I can to get back to my initial fit challenges at least I knew them, won't say I have figured them all out yet though! LOL

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  13. I am fairly new to sewing clothes, and according to pattern measurements I am exactly a size 10. However, I've realized that everything I've made in a 10 is too large! I'm not sure if everyone has this problem, but I know I have run into it. I have gradually started making smaller sizes...I wish there was a class I could take on getting my clothes to fit better. This is definitely something I struggle with.

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  14. I learned so much about fit while reading PatternReview and asking for help there. I learned to use my upper bust msmt to get a good fit through the shoulders and to adjust the pattern for other parts which needed a bit more room. I am still on the quest for a GOOD fit in pants. I can make pants which are wearable but not perfectly fitted. So many bumps, so little time.

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  15. The "Fit Journey" is still lying in front me. Since I really want to master the art of sewing, I have stocked up on books about fitting and I regularly read all the great advices from you, the most skillful sewing bloggers. Only the sewing folks knows, how tricky fitting can really be, so I hope I will manage it one day and will be able to sew great-fitting garments.

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  16. I love these questions!
    I'm still learning, no doubt. Dresses or skirts no problem, but trousers is a different story.
    One of my plans for this winter is to make a fitting shell, so hopefully my problems will be (partially at least) solved.

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  17. Interesting question! I have always had troubles with my body measurements. Firstly, I have a strange body. Small upper torso and large lower torso. I always have problems shaping the pattern to fit my curvy sway back. Since I am a little afraid of knits, I tend to stick to woven and they are so difficult to drape and fit my sway back. I have been experimenting with self drafted patterns but I am still learning. It's been awhile since I stitched anything because of my drawing overload. Now that this topic is up, maybe I light sew something this weekend. :) Thanks Victoria for this interesting giveaway!

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  18. To Uma - knits are easy! Really! Use a twin needle for the hems and just pull and shove everything else into place!

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  19. With weight loss and gain and pregnancys in last 2 years Ive had alot of changes to make. Still have a wideand sway back wrinkle issue to resolve which has followed me at every stage. Need to experiment more.
    Thanks for this giveaway.

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  20. Great question! Even though I've been sewing for a few years now, I feel like I'm only just getting started on my fit journey but I have learnt a lot already. I already knew I was tall but altering patterns really opened my eyes to proportions, particularly my waist length. I always thought that I was long waisted because RTW tops & dresses are always too short but then I learnt that relative to my legs I'm short waisted! Learning this has helped me find and make clothing to suit my shape! There are still lots of fit tips and tricks to learn out there though - I'm working my way towards some TNT patterns I can always refer back to.

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  21. I love the imagery of the "Fit Journey". I definitely feel that way about it! When I first learned to do an FBA, I thought, OK, I can fit myself now, but the more I learn, I think the more critical I have become. Of course, as life progresses our bodies change, so there is always more to learn!
    I'm totally with you on the older sewing books, too. I definitely think they are superior in so many ways.

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  22. It has been a long journey trying to get to the perfect FIT. I've made significant progress along the way; however, I'm still learning. I do have several TNTs that I know will work for me. I still have challenges when it comes to pants. I hope to be a FIT expert some day. It's been an eventful journey so far. I know my FIT issues at this point and I'm working on the solutions to FIT my BODY. My final destination is still ahead of me.

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  23. I'm just starting and learning. I made a custom dress form for myself this fall in the hopes that it would help me get a better idea of my fit. I have really broad shoulders, small bust and average waist and hips, a very long torso and long legs. I've figured out that much so far! This book would be so helpful.

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  24. I also agree about older sewing books - more no-nonsense details rather than gushy girlfriend talk. I've been utilizing my library for the excellent books by Adele Margolis. One of her books has been recently republished, too.

    Ah, the "fit journey"! Being an inverted triangle, I find RTW is always tight in the waist and too small in the shoulders and armhole. Tight in the waist is easy to fix, but the shoulders have been a real struggle for me, especially since there are so many alteration possibilities and it's challenging to figure out exactly what is needed. I'm thrilled that after two or so years, I have a few TNT blouse patterns. Hurrah for fit!

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  25. Mmmmm, fit journey, I am still very much on the path. Have got lots of problem area, first,I lengthen pattern almost all the time, high derrier, long arm, broad shoulder, swayback,these are the areas I fit most of the time. I have problem with pant (jeans included)shopping. B4 i learned to sew, i did't own a dress....seriously, but now I have tons....lol all made with love by me and they fit so well because of the extra time I spend fitting the patterns. Sewing lesson was the greatest gift I got about 3 years ago as a Xmas present and am so glad I went for the class, the rest is now history. great post as always

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  26. Congratulations! Your first anniversary and you do blogging justice. As for the giveaway, I'll skip this one because I bought the last pattern book your recommended. :)

    As for my fitting journey: I am definitely learning more with each new piece. Some things I know immediately have to be adjusted on the pattern and I don't even bother making a muslin until that's corrected first. But still some issues stump me. I need to really devote time to studying up on adjusting patterns and the proper way to do so. Great question!

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  27. Still learning! After I lost weight I was all lost. I started buying fitting books but didn't know where to start as my body is a bit strange. It is getting better with my fitting skills, I must say. But still learning - I am going on my 3rd Palmer/Pletsch fitting course in March - we are setting up the course ourselves and flying in the teacher from abroad. Oh yeah, we are that desperate. :-)

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  28. That was a good question, I've been sewing a long time and I'm still learning, always find fabrics react differently ... different pattern, new challenges ... That's what I like sewing

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  29. I think I'm just starting my fit journey. I'm close enough to pattern sizes that I can wear clothes sewn without alterations, but I'm really beginning to learn just how much of a difference fit makes in how a garment ends up looking. Unfortunately, while I've learned to notice all the fit flaws, I don't know how to make the pattern adjustments to fix them! I always raid my local used bookstore for sewing books, but I haven't found a nice, detailed fit one yet, so I'm still working by trial and error. My process is a lot like my shopping process for RTW: try a bunch of stuff and find the patterns that happen to fit me right.

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  30. I really do have some fitting issues! I have a short torso and very long legs (and I'm only 5'6"). I've learned over the years to shorten the crotch length on my slacks, but haven't really run into a problem yet with tops or dresses. (just starting to make more dresses so I may need to in the future).

    Since I've aged and gained more weight, I know find myself needing the FBA. I know nothing about this and have seen it on many blogs. This is definitely something I'm going to have to learn and very soon. I have so many wadders because they don't fit in this area! All in all, I think I'm fairly good at fitting my body, I just need more experience in this area.

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  31. Hi Victoria, Happy Thanksgiving! You were the winner of the silk fabric give-away at my blog. I have emailed you, but perhaps it got stuck in your spam folder... get back to me with your address and I will mail it off to you. alittlesewing at gmail dot com. Congrats on your blog anniversary! My fitting journey has been going on for about 3 years now and I am still relying mostly on my TNT patterns, but hope that will change in 2011! I plan to alter more commercial patterns because I am getting a little bored with basics.

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  32. Being very short (4'11") and curvy, I've had a lot of fitting challenges. It's nearly impossible to find RTW to fit, so sewing is my only hope for a decent wardrobe. I agree with the poster who said that it was more difficult to fit for lack of height than curviness. You can't just lop off stuff at the hem---porportion is everything.

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  33. Being 5' 10" I learned long ago that if I wanted something to fit I'd have to sew it for myself. Ready to wear for me means...high water pants and sleeves that are always too short. As I've gotten older the fit issues have remained the same but others have popped up with the way your body changes as you age. SO...I think we are all a work in progress no matter how skillful you feel you are with your adjustments it will always be something that changes over time.

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  34. (I own this book so don't count me in for this one, lol)

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  35. I'm still learning but I feel like I'm learning fast. Grading sizes within a pattern, doing an FBA, "unpetite" a pattern has worked for me until now. No dart manipulation or the like but I'm reading about it and I'm confident that someday I'll be able to make a number of alterations for a perfect fit.

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  36. Improving the fit is definitely a work in progress; that's why I'm tossing my name into the two fit books (this one & the Singer). I'm still working on remembering to shorten patterns for my short & straight (aka overerect!) back. I'm also always fearful of overfitting, and usually find my jackets a bit too large in wear. Oh well. One of these days....

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  37. My big fitting "aha" was when I realised I didn't have a sway back but a very short torso. Like you I have narrow shoulders and ribcage, long legs and short torso (shoulders to waist).

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  38. I am definitely just getting to that point of realizing that my garments need to fit better. I am working on figuring out what I need to do to fit my body right now. I have noticed lately that my top is much smaller pattern-wise than my bottom. It makes fitting skirts pretty difficult because my waist is much smaller than my hips. I am trying to read as much as possible right now to figure out how to fit my body.

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  39. Definitely still learning. Part of my challenge is figuring out what is good fit and how to achieve it, and part of it is getting comfortable with "dressing up" (I'm a slob at heart). I'm not very adventurous about trying new things or being "fashionable," but I'm giving it a go.

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  40. Me - I`m still on my "Fit Journey" and still learning. But one thing I already know: most important is the shape of the figure and to know what suits me and what not. Playing with beautiful materials, colors, details and the sewing-skills doesn`t help, it`s only lying to myself. Mirror and self-criticism does. Two laws to myself: to feel good in my cloths and to "carry them out".
    I also keep sewing-diary. Writing after the details of the pattern the alterations that I made. Next time good to check: I use the good pattern more than once.

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  41. Ugh, fitting is such a challenge for me! I still haven't really figured out what alterations I regularly need, mostly because I haven't been sewing for myself very much lately. I hope that changes real soon!

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  42. When I started sewing, I just used patterns out of the envelope and was disappointed that every single garment was too big in the bust and looked horrible. I didn't know you could do more than just choose a size. Discovering the SBA changed my life--for both the better and the worse...because now I want to fix *all* my little fitting challenges. Next step after SBA was swayback. Now it's broad back. Maybe someday it will be narrow shoulders. Who knows?

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Thanks so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for following me on my 10,000 Hour Sewing Challenge:)

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